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Yes - this will be the last ....for  a while about mens suits. But I would be remiss if I didn't mention ....


THE TRENDS!!: The 3-Piece Is BACK! Double Breasted Blazers! Blue Is The New Black! Plaid Ties! Flirty Bow Ties!

Let's Talk About You:

Slim Jim: A blazer, a vest, slacks - very typical of English fashion. It says "confident without cocky". Try a fitted three piece or even a sac suit. Sometimes guys try to look bigger or more muscular if they get the size bigger or add layers to their 'look'. Just because you are slender doesnt mean you need to add bulk with your clothes. Try a double-breasted, box cut or (if you dare) a striped blazer, if you want to add poundage. Colors or color blocking with lines can also help. Explore roasted oranges, perky sage greens or dirty greys for the shirt underneath or trench on top.


Athletic Anthony: Blazer: try a European cut like Shipley and Halmos. These cuts are designed to emphasized the chest - perfect, since you've been working out like a maniac.  They often have a nipped waist, making your worked out look, work for you. 


Extra Bulk Bill: Try for a simple matt blue, two or three button fitted (yes, fitted) blazer to look leaner. For added spoof - go for the one with the satin or velvet lapels drawing the eye upwards away from any place you don't want people to look:). A two vent by billy reid or those with a caboose in the back, a one vent Americana. Flat front pants create that smooth look - yes, even guys with large thighs and large behinds:).


Elevate You: Here are easy ways to elevate your own style whichever you choose.


1. Boutineers - they are kind of like brooches, but for guys. Choose anything that represents you and your personality. You like bowling? Try a pin. You like to go hunting? Try some antlers on for size. You like snowboarding, pin up a broken boot buckle or even your locker keys! Remember folks- style is working within the confines of YOU - and only you.


2. Plaid - go to the tailor and tell them you want them to sew in some plaid fabric - most tailors have some remnant fabric leftover so if any at all, it will cost you zero dinero. Bring a tie, some old slides, an old shirt and tell them to sew the plaid on the tip of the tie,  into the tongue of the shoe, the cuff of the shirt. These are easy trend fixes guys, that will save you money and energy.


3. Raid the closet! If girls can do it, so can you! Bring out your dad's old double breasted blazer and ask the tailor to take it in. Granted, if your dad and you aren't within two sizes of each other, it will be hard to do. Alternative: Get this cardigan by Diesel (below) seen at www.SSense.com or buy the American Apparel jersey version of the double breasted navy blazer here - its warm for the winter and super comfortable.

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So this week I did a variety of jean fittings for both men and women - all who had vastly different body types. And all who wanted to emphasize (deemphasize) different parts of their body. This is normal right? When you have a little pooch, maybe you want to have a higher rise; If you have a larger bottom, maybe you want to balance out your proportions. All this can be done with illusions of wash, a great tailor and of course, me to help pick out the right kind of jeans:-). In the fitting room, my clients always hear me saying the 80-20 rule: I can get you 80% of the way, but tailoring will get you the other 20%. Its a process and fortunately I can make it easier for you to get through it:).

Let's talk about a common problem women have in fitting jeans - "the gape". Typically you fit the largest part of your body first and then have alterations take care of the rest. Sometimes, its a frustrating process. There are also some amazing jeans you can buy that fit real women at the waist - PZI, Cookie Johnson, Citizen's Amber and Eva Jean are super!

More slender women has problems with the legs - too wide still? And you are a 0 or 2 or even a double zero? Try J Brand Jeans or Rich and Skinny. Don't go up a size, don't worry - they seem tiny, but they will give you a great fit. And....you only have to hem the legs.

In your Jeans appointment, we talk about rectangle, pears, hourglass and inverted/apple body types and how based on your type, we can find you a great pair of jeans. The pictures below show what we will DEFINITELY stay away from!
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The picture above is provided by a cool local company in Berkeley called Zafu. They've created a little test to out the perfect pair of jeans - I'm going to take the test - stay tuned to the results in my next blog posting!
Guys- you also shouldn't settle for just "ok" fit on jeans - go one size up if you have a larger mid-section or bottom - then have them tailored. Trust me - everyone will notice something "different" about you. You don't need to wear larger shirts over the jeans all the time if that's not your style. 

Another issue with a lot of mens jeans, is that their inseam is tooooo short and legs too wideeee! In other words, they flood. LOL. Maybe you didnt feel like taking back the jeans you had after getting them home from the store - maybe you like them short....who knows?! But you only have too choices here - give them to Goodwill or shrink a couple inches:). The tailor can take off fabric, but its hard to put it back on. So if you are not sure, go for the longer inseam initially. 

If you find your jeans are a little WIDE in the leg, try sliming down a different way. Guys get the 'relaxed fit' because they whine, "I just wanna be comfortable.....". Well you can be comfortable AND stylish without FLOODING. Trends nowadays are slim fit. Many have super soft combed cotton for that lux feel. So...go for one size up in a slim fit jean like Scotch Whiskey or G-Star. Slimmer legs means you are going for that leaner line - taller, if you will:-).


But watchout - don't go crazy on me and get those super TIGHT pair of men "skinnies" in the picture below - that's gotta hurt - ouch!
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I am looking for someone to assist me by sewing custom mens ties and pocket squares.

If you have experience sewing, custom making, mending, making patterns, reconstructing shirts (not just cutting, braiding and tying shirts but dying, even putting gromments in to create a different look for example), let me know! 

Fill out the "contact form" and I look forward to meeting you!
 

©2011 Taiselyse Inc.